Fine Dining at General Warren Inne

The historic General Warren Inne has a reputation for fine dining and attentive service, but not for inexpensive meals. We were delighted to see prix fixe options for diners willing to eat early on Monday through Thursday evenings posted on their website, and also on their bound menus.

From 5 to 6 p.m., three courses with a reasonable selection of items from their regular menu are offered for $28. Dining at 6 p.m. or later increases the cost to $33. A bottle of wine from a limited list of “house wine” can be added to two prix fixe meals for an additional $26.

We informed our friendly, professional server that we were interested in the specials when we were seated. She graciously described the items and offered to help with wine pairings. The only snag was that the list of house wines on the table did not match those offered on the special. Our original choice of a Malbec was unavailable, so we chose instead an unknown cabernet sauvignon at our server’s suggestion.

A basket of four warm rolls and butter appeared before we had placed our order. We tasted the 2007 Rosenblum Cabernet Sauvignon and approved of its moderate tannins.

The first course of Snapper Soup ($7.75) and a General Warren House Salad ($7.50) arrived quickly. A small carafe of sherry was presented with the soup. We found it to be a bit heavy on flour and salt and lighter on some of the clove spiciness. Small pieces of tender vegetables and turtle meat were suspended in the gravy-like broth.

Our server ground black pepper onto the salad from a large wooden mill. Fresh greens, julienne carrots, cucumber rounds and red and yellow cherry tomato halves were dressed in a basil vinaigrette.

Our plates and used utensils were cleared and replaced for the entrees. A beautiful fan of Flat Iron Steak ($26) was spread on a flavorful demi glace beside four asparagus spears and a unique German potato salad. The steak was tender, cooked to order, and had good beef flavor. Small firm rounds of potato in a savory warm bacon and onion sauce was a surprising treat.

The Pan Seared Scottish Salmon ($27) was a thick fillet of pink fish with a crispy exterior and tender inside. A Dijon custard was a good pairing for the salmon, but the star of the platter was the black truffle rice. Each delicate grain of the white rice was separate, with bits of black truffles and an overall richness.

We could have left satisfied yet not full after our first two courses, but had an excuse to indulge in dessert since it was included in the deal. We chose from the regular dessert menu prepared by their resident pastry chef, with an additional $3 charge for the tableside preparation of bananas Foster flambé. Our veteran server gave us her recommendation, although we chose to not have something chocolate—for a change.

The crème brûlée had silky vanilla custard and the thin stained-glass layer of caramelized sugar on top. Two Linzer torte cookies on the side were a delicious bonus. It seemed a bit out of season for Apple Maple Bread Pudding although the assorted seasonal fresh berries on the side were purely July. A comforting round of apple and lightly sweetened bread sat on a pool of thick maple caramel sauce, with a dehydrated apple slice perched on the vanilla ice cream topping.

We savored our dining experience with white tablecloths and candlelight. The live entertainment in the adjacent Tavern area added to the ambience with a trio of musicians performing light jazz at a modest volume. A good number of patrons were enjoying the music and drink specials in the small bar area. The General seems to march on.

9 Old Lancaster Ave., Malvern

Telephone: 610-296-3637

Website: generalwarren.com

Hours: Lunch, Mon – Fri, 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., Dinner, Mon – Sat, 5 – 10 p.m.; closed Sunday

Cost: Appetizers, soups, $5 to $14; entrees, $18 – 30

Credit cards: VISA, MasterCard, Discover, American Express, Diners Club

Alcohol: Full Bar

Special Features: Bed & breakfast, historic inn, tableside service